Tuesday, October 17, 2023

Scenic Views

Sometimes I hear or read a headline and it sparks my imagination. Do you know the show, "Black Mirror"? It is speculative fiction where some current technology or issue is taken just a step further than its current state.During the pandemic, there was a podcast called "The Chronicles of Now" that aired briefly. It consisted of fiction inspired by today’s headlines. I liked the idea and this story is in that same vein.



AP News - 9/26/23 - “Leaf-peeping social media users are clogging a Vermont back road. The town is closing it”


NY Times - Fall 2023 - “How Crowded Are America’s National Parks? See for Yourself.”

Americans are flocking to national parks in record numbers, in many cases leading to long lines and overcrowded facilities.


Scenic Views


It's just too scenic. You aren't allowed to see it. No one is. These places used to be accessible to everyone. But they couldn't handle it. They went overboard and ruined it. You can't even go to major cities or National parks these days without a reservation. They are suffering from their own popularity, almost literally loved to death.


I remember the first hints that this was where we were headed. We visited Yellowstone back in 1990. We were traveling around the country in a two wheel drive Toyota pickup with no air conditioning in the pre-GPS days. You had to know how to read a map back then. We made it all the way from Vermont to the west coast with just our old road atlas. The cover was torn and the pages were dog eared and rumpled. In the mornings, while sipping instant coffee made palatable with plenty of sugar and milk, I looked over the route for the day.


Our camp site was quiet and off the beaten path. Over the weeks of traveling, we had learned what type of places to avoid. If we pulled into a parking lot and it was full of RVs, we would turn around and look for something else. We learned that you could camp for free on any national forest land and that was our favorite place to go. Most people wanted more than what was found on these remote roads. They wanted lights and toilets and gift shops. We didn't need any of that. We wanted nature and quiet and solitude.


We also wanted to see Yellowstone and some of the other big sights, so we gritted our teeth and joined the masses. Over time, we formed our own opinions about RVers after following slow ones up miles of narrow highways, wishing they would pull over to let us pass. We would take a big breath and try to stay calm. Even when people were wandering off the boardwalks right next to the sign prohibiting them from doing so. We watched them walk onto fragile land sporting bermuda shorts and goggling through video cameras. Sunscreen congealed in a thick layer on the back of their necks and cigarettes dangled from their mouths. Inevitably, they flicked the butts onto the ground with oblivion and we would just stand there helplessly, rolling our eyes and giving each other a look. You might think that it was foreign visitors who maybe couldn’t read the sign, but it wasn’t. They had more sense and didn’t have that as an excuse. There was no excuse.


Anyway, that was decades ago and it was already getting bad at the more popular national parks. That was before the Yosemite riots and the incident at the Grand Canyon. I blame the internet. It ruined everything. People became obsessed with having the best picture for their Facebook or Instagram account. I wondered if they actually enjoyed being in these great natural areas. Or was it just about getting the perfect selfie with Half Dome looming in the background at just the right angle with just the right rays of setting sun reflecting off its serene face.


This is what I heard about Yosemite. After waiting for hours in lines of traffic to get in, tempers were already hot. A big crowd jostled near the fence, cell phones waving in the air. The inadequate number of national park staff stood by helplessly. There was some kind of scuffle near the fence put up to keep people from trampling the rare plants beyond. A punch was thrown and people started shoving each other. It moved like a wave through the packed crowd and quickly was out of control.


Like so many other things, a few people - well quite a few - ruined it for the rest of us. Now, after going through a rigorous background check, you wait months to receive your digital access code. The entrances to the national parks resemble the gates to a maximum security prison. Red and white striped barricades block the road and tall metal fences strung across the top with razor wire flank either side. Armed guards stand with grim faces waiting for potential trouble. A set of guards with digital scanners patiently check the passengers in every vehicle, running the scanner over proffered bar codes.


It’s not just parks but certain locations in cities too. My son wanted us to go to the “Cloud Gate” in Chicago. We had seen it in pictures of course. He was there for a new job and we had come to visit. We made our way downtown and were disappointed when we saw the line of fencing. It stretched on all sides of the giant silver bean-shaped sculpture. You barely could see it. There was one gated entry and the new National Parks and Significant Sights Security force was there to scan people in. I didn’t like the look of the heavy black automatic rifles slung across their fronts and knew that without a reservation, we weren’t getting in. We got back on our rented Ebikes, hit the throttles and headed for the waterfront path. That was remote and spread out enough that all it took was a quick ID check for us to access it.


It was only a matter of time before all of this came to Vermont. After hordes of leaf-peepers descended on the state year after year, something snapped. There were certain well known iconic spots to get pictures. You know the ones. The rolling valley with the perfect red barn situated just so and a patch of green field to provide contrast to the flaming leaves. You probably put together a puzzle that looked just like it. Again, another case of the dark side of the internet. The location data for these spots was shared and instead of the occasional car from Massachusetts or Connecticut rolling along a dirt road, there were now long lines of cars and giant F150s and the even bigger hundred thousand dollar sprinter vans outfitted to the teeth all crawling along to that one spot in search of the perfect picture.


I was in Pomfret the day the woman was killed. It was awful. The road was part of a bicycle loop a friend had been telling me about for years. The stars finally aligned and we could ride together. We checked the route on our tablets for any security restrictions and it appeared to be clear. It was one of those lucky fall days where temperatures were in the 70s under clear blue skies. The smell of the leaves was intoxicating and the fallen ones crunched under our wheels. We started to pass a line of parked cars on the narrow dirt road and first we figured it was a wedding or maybe people stopped for an apple orchard.


We came around a corner and there was a knot of people crowded near a section of stone wall lined with maples, all waving phones and cameras. We stopped our bikes to try and understand what we were seeing. There was one woman to the side who had a painter's easel and was capturing the scene of the barn and rolling hills to the east. The people didn’t look happy. Shouts and curses could be heard. There was jostling as those on the outside of the crowd tried to wedge their way towards the front.


We looked at each other and shook our heads, realizing that this was leaf peeping gone mad. We heard an engine revving to our right and an impossibly large truck was backing towards the woman and her canvas. I knew what was going to happen, but couldn’t react fast enough. My stomach clenched and I felt frozen, unable to move. She didn’t hear it and then it was too late. The easel splintered and paint and maybe blood spattered the tailgate of the truck. The crowd panicked and people scattered back to their cars. The noise and confusion broke me out of my trance and I had to look away. We called 911 and waited for the ambulance and police to show up.


Now there are certain roads in Vermont that you can’t travel in the fall unless you live there. It’s best to check the Scenic Access app before you venture out. You might be going along and see something up ahead. Then you get closer and it is a line of barricades painted orange and white. “Road Closed Except for Residents” reads the sign. A bored looking security guard stands to the side, head cocked listening to the ear piece with one hand on the heavy pistol hanging off his hip.

2 comments:

  1. Mr Texier and I have an evening ritual: At 6 pm, we sit down with an aperitif and read aloud to each other. Our choice of reading material includes everything from the day’s headlines to French novels==whatever interests us. Your blog will become part of the lineup. The intro to this post is particularly intriguing.

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  2. Good for you, Jon! Your effort is a good incentive for me to keep up with my “illustrated journal” in which I may write/draw/paint about something that happened today, or about that beautiful bag my cousin made for me, or… who knows? Like your blog, it’s a motley mix. Thank you for doing this!

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